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Thread: 009571 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crasher View Post
    Could be a vacuum leak or you have not set it up correctly.
    OK I've checked for vacuum leakage but the Actuator is perfect and the boost control solenoid only a few months old, so no issues there.
    I found on re-inspection that the voltage had altered to an incorrect one at idle so I went about the procedure to reset it again. After that , the car went well going up my street but after going out into the next street
    it started acting up again. Watching the voltage on the VCDS 120 measure block, I found that when it was lacking performance under acceleration, the voltage also stayed low, and when it started to perform or kick in,
    the voltage rose again. It was happening intermittently. I realized it might be sticky turbo vanes as the actuating arm was not perfectly smooth from being driven while not being actuated for a few weeks waiting for the part.
    I think some coke built up in there and made it erratic. Does this sound plausible? The issue kind of makes it intermittently work and then not work, but seems to be working more often as it gets driven more.

    Cheers so far!
    2008 Skoda Octavia VRS 2.0 TDI

  2. #32
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    Updating my situation.

    I wonder if anyone can figure this one out.
    So I've gone through the Turbo Actuator syncing instructions about 4 times now. Each time I got it exact, after a drive or two, the lower voltage settled at a different level either just below or just above the starting point of 7.68.

    However this last time, It settled close to it, swapping between the 7.68V and the 6.8 V range, roughly.
    Each time I have reset the Turbo Boost Switch via Long Adaptation saving 0001 as the value, though I can not press the save button, it takes the number and greys out the field after I move the cursor. I then switch off the engine and restart it, followed by a Turbo Boost Actuator Adaptation cycle in Basic Settings, to relearn whatever it does. Forgive me if I use the wrong terminology.

    Then I go for a drive. At first, I've had good driving response, and then I get a reluctance of the engine to power up and go. This usually happens at take-off, when I have the pedal half down or more, and the revs seem to be governed at either 2000 or 2500 RPM. It seems to be holding back, but if I toggle the accelerator a few times and gently bring it back and then down slowly, I hear a whistle as the turbo winds up and it sounds like it begins to breath, but instead of a smooth transition to power, it will suddenly lurch to life and then go through the gears powerfully all the way to 160km if I want.

    Problem is, once I slow down again, the tendency is to crawl again, as if something is being governed, until I fluff around with the accelerator back and forth a bit, finally lurching off again. This is annoyingly inconvenient when someone is tailing me as I can't go when I need to.

    In Sports mode, there seems to be less of a problem, though it isn't all perfect at low speeds. I find that in Tiptronic, aside from first gear, all gears seem to power through once off the mark. I wondered if it was the gearbox at one stage.

    But then I was going through settings in my VCDS, watching requested boost as opposed to actual boost. they both seemed good when cruising, but as I fluctuated my acceleration, these two sometimes differed as much as 1000, one being about 2600 and the other about 1500. A differential happened at low speeds too. So I looked at the voltages for the Actuator. They seemed to be working, however, when I pulled up, the usual 0.76 woudln't stabilize, but was over 1V - 1.2V and fluctuating, while I heard a corresponding whistle change from the turbo. It eventually returned. Sometimes it seems like the voltage gets stuck at around 7.6 when Adapting and also when increasing speed from a standstill. Other times it seems to free up. I've no idea if that is an ECU regulated issue or if it is a problem with vacuum or my boost switch. Funnily though, the boost switch is only about a year old.

    So I wonder if this helps anyone. The symptoms are a bit broad, but it is causing a stifling of power when I put the accelerator pedal down. If I flatten the pedal and there is a governed response, it will just lag until the engine coil light comes on and the code that is found in VCDS relates to Boost Pressure Regulation.
    Anyone got a clue what I should do next?

    regards
    2008 Skoda Octavia VRS 2.0 TDI

  3. #33
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    The turbo vane adjuster ring is sticking inside, it needs a rebuild.
    2003 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate. APR 98RON remap, APR R1 diverter valve, Jetex exhaust, K&N panel filter, 7.5x18 Alutec Monstr wheels with 225/40 18 Uniroyal Rainsport 3 tyres.
    2006 Polo GTI 1.8T, APR 95RON remap
    1988 Golf 2 GTI 16 valve, 2.2 with Weber Alpha injection
    1983 Golf 1 GTI 8 valve, 2 litre with Eurospec racing 42/36 head
    1972 1302LS auto 1641cc conversion

    Vile Invention

    Dark was that day when Diesel conceived his grim engine that begot you, vile invention, more vicious, more criminal than the camera even, metallic monstrosity, bale and bane of our culture, chief woe of our Commonweal. How dare the Law prohibit hashish and heroin yet license your use, who inflate all weak inferior egos? Their addicts only do harm to their own lives: you poison the lungs of the innocent, your din dithers the peaceful, and on choked roads hundreds must daily die by chance-medley. Nimble technicians, surely you should hang your heads in shame. Your wit works mighty wonders, has landed men on the Moon, replaced brains by computers, and can smithy a "smart" bomb. It is a crying scandal that you cannot take the time or be bothered to build us, what sanity knows we need, an odorless and noiseless staid little electric brougham.

    W.H. Auden (1907-1973), A Curse:

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crasher View Post
    The turbo vane adjuster ring is sticking inside, it needs a rebuild.
    Mate thanks for that quick isolation of the problem. I did wonder if it was a turbo wear issue. To clarify, do you mean a good clean out or a full rebuild?
    I noticed some gravelly winding sounds when the revs back off on the engine too, thinking it might be bearings in the Turbo.
    I was considering buying a new unit altogether and being done with it, as long as I can confidently say its the turbo.

    cheers in advance
    2008 Skoda Octavia VRS 2.0 TDI

  5. #35
    Administrator Crasher's Avatar
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    Not so much wear but a build of of carbon which has to be bead blasted off, ask a local turbo reconditioner, in the UK you would pay around 350
    2003 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate. APR 98RON remap, APR R1 diverter valve, Jetex exhaust, K&N panel filter, 7.5x18 Alutec Monstr wheels with 225/40 18 Uniroyal Rainsport 3 tyres.
    2006 Polo GTI 1.8T, APR 95RON remap
    1988 Golf 2 GTI 16 valve, 2.2 with Weber Alpha injection
    1983 Golf 1 GTI 8 valve, 2 litre with Eurospec racing 42/36 head
    1972 1302LS auto 1641cc conversion

    Vile Invention

    Dark was that day when Diesel conceived his grim engine that begot you, vile invention, more vicious, more criminal than the camera even, metallic monstrosity, bale and bane of our culture, chief woe of our Commonweal. How dare the Law prohibit hashish and heroin yet license your use, who inflate all weak inferior egos? Their addicts only do harm to their own lives: you poison the lungs of the innocent, your din dithers the peaceful, and on choked roads hundreds must daily die by chance-medley. Nimble technicians, surely you should hang your heads in shame. Your wit works mighty wonders, has landed men on the Moon, replaced brains by computers, and can smithy a "smart" bomb. It is a crying scandal that you cannot take the time or be bothered to build us, what sanity knows we need, an odorless and noiseless staid little electric brougham.

    W.H. Auden (1907-1973), A Curse:

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crasher View Post
    Not so much wear but a build of of carbon which has to be bead blasted off, ask a local turbo reconditioner, in the UK you would pay around 350
    Ok I understand that. I might even be able to try and sand-blast it as I have the grit and gun. Correct me if I'm wrong.
    Either way, I have to get the entire turbo with manifold off by the sounds of it. Not sure if the exhaust side of the turbo can be separated without removal of the whole.
    2008 Skoda Octavia VRS 2.0 TDI

  7. #37
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    I wouldn't attempt to clean the turbo yourself, the turbo company will strip, clean, balance and rebuild themselves, and if it comes with the turbo actuator they will most likely calibrate this to the turbo too
    I've used Midland Turbos in the past, never had any problems with them, there done on an exchange basis so you wont have to wait long.

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  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJD83 View Post
    I wouldn't attempt to clean the turbo yourself, the turbo company will strip, clean, balance and rebuild themselves, and if it comes with the turbo actuator they will most likely calibrate this to the turbo too
    I've used Midland Turbos in the past, never had any problems with them, there done on an exchange basis so you wont have to wait long.
    Thanks for the recommendations. I have decided to buy a new turbo, genuine identical part by Borg Warner. I'll change it out myself then see if the old one is worth salvaging for someone in need.
    2008 Skoda Octavia VRS 2.0 TDI

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJD83 View Post
    II've used Midland Turbos in the past, never had any problems with them
    I am very lucky in that they are only a few miles from my house so I can take a turbo home, drop it off in the morning and pick it up a day or so later and they NEVER let me down. It was even better when TPS were just across the car park but they moved!
    2003 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate. APR 98RON remap, APR R1 diverter valve, Jetex exhaust, K&N panel filter, 7.5x18 Alutec Monstr wheels with 225/40 18 Uniroyal Rainsport 3 tyres.
    2006 Polo GTI 1.8T, APR 95RON remap
    1988 Golf 2 GTI 16 valve, 2.2 with Weber Alpha injection
    1983 Golf 1 GTI 8 valve, 2 litre with Eurospec racing 42/36 head
    1972 1302LS auto 1641cc conversion

    Vile Invention

    Dark was that day when Diesel conceived his grim engine that begot you, vile invention, more vicious, more criminal than the camera even, metallic monstrosity, bale and bane of our culture, chief woe of our Commonweal. How dare the Law prohibit hashish and heroin yet license your use, who inflate all weak inferior egos? Their addicts only do harm to their own lives: you poison the lungs of the innocent, your din dithers the peaceful, and on choked roads hundreds must daily die by chance-medley. Nimble technicians, surely you should hang your heads in shame. Your wit works mighty wonders, has landed men on the Moon, replaced brains by computers, and can smithy a "smart" bomb. It is a crying scandal that you cannot take the time or be bothered to build us, what sanity knows we need, an odorless and noiseless staid little electric brougham.

    W.H. Auden (1907-1973), A Curse:

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  12. #40
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    Hi everyone. I got similar issues with the main what had PJD83. My Crafter was in VW service and they done a lot. At the end they said that they don't know what's wrong. My guess is that after changing everything they didn't pay too much attention to actuator. If one of You could send me this instruction from Crasher to do it by myself I would really appreciate. I have VCDS and Vaccum hand pump. So need just this tool that you've been talking about. If that will not help I'll make new post with all details of problem codes and freeze frame.

    I got 2012 Crafter 35 MWB 2.0 TDI CKTB.

    Message me thanks
    Last edited by Gtruehell; 29-06-19 at 09:01. Reason: Added info about me

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