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Thread: Mk7 Golf Heating not working

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by candellara View Post
    Hi chaps,

    We have exactly the same issue on our 2013 Golf GT TDI.

    Gurgling noise from behind dash. No warm air from heaters. Everything checked by VW - no fault codes on system and temp is stable at 90c

    Flushed the matrix and replaced the reservoir and cap. No issues for 6 months and then after a long motorway drive, gurgling noise, no heat from vents and water leaking from reservoir (although temp stable at 90c)

    A tech for VW in the States reckons it caused by the plastic impellers on the water pumps spinning on their shafts intermittently causing lack of water circulation (no heat from vents) and expulsion of water from expansion tank?
    Worth editing this as some further information has just come to light:

    As stated, 6 months ago (during a motorway drive) we lost heat to the vents and we had gurgling noises from the dash. The car was subsequently booked into VW and their diagnosis was that there are no fault codes present but was is common on MK7 Golfs was that the silica bag in the water expansion tank ruptures and blocks the heater matrix. Price to rectify £819 for new matrix.

    I didn't believe them and was a bit miffed that they hadn't tried to flush the system so i took the car away. I disconnected the hoses from the matrix at home and flushed with a hose and water was flowing freely. Upon reconnecting & top up, heat from the vents again!! The car only does local town driving and everything has been well for 6 months UNTIL, a recent motorway drive. Same symptoms, no heat from vents, gurgling noise and some water being forced from expansion tank on this occasion.

    After returning home, i ordered a new expansion bottle & cap - very low cost and really to eradicate these items from being any cause. After fitting and checking, we have heat again from the vents.

    Well, today i opened up the old expansion tank with a saw - and, the silicant bag is not rupted and fully intact with all of it's crystals!!!!! Now this is becoming farcical as the amount of threads there are all over the forums about this exact problem and VW continuing to replace heater matrix's. One poor lady has had 3 heater matrix's as the VW dealer insists that the silicant granules have contaminated the system and continue to block the new heater matrix's. Indeed my local VW dealer wanted to relieve me of £819 for replacing the matrix - when we know the matrix isn't blocked.

    Don't know where to go with this now but the VW technician in the States reckons it's a problem with one of the two electric coolant pumps (with plastic impellers that end up spinning on their shafts)

    Any thoughts?
    2013 Golf GT 2.0 TDI-CR

  2. #22
    Administrator Crasher's Avatar
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    It isn't complicated; there are two main reasons for poor heater output. Firstly the matrix is so small they had to make the capillaries tiny and so they block easily and you cannot effectively flush it clean, it will just silt up again. What we do is blast the system clean with the pressure wash and I mean clean! Then we fit a new matrix (genuine) and we refill with G13 and that NORMALLY gets the heat flowing. The other problem is the electric heater water pump and the intercooler pump, these are both very prone to failure and failure of either causes cavitation in the system and.... gurgling noises... The water pump impeller issue is OLD, that was years ago.
    2003 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate. APR 98RON remap, APR R1 diverter valve, Jetex exhaust, K&N panel filter, 7.5x18 Alutec Monstr wheels with 225/40 18 Uniroyal Rainsport 3 tyres.
    2006 Polo GTI 1.8T, APR 95RON remap
    1988 Golf 2 GTI 16 valve, 2.2 with Weber Alpha injection
    1983 Golf 1 GTI 8 valve, 2 litre with Eurospec racing 42/36 head
    1972 1302LS auto 1641cc conversion

    Vile Invention

    Dark was that day when Diesel conceived his grim engine that begot you, vile invention, more vicious, more criminal than the camera even, metallic monstrosity, bale and bane of our culture, chief woe of our Commonweal. How dare the Law prohibit hashish and heroin yet license your use, who inflate all weak inferior egos? Their addicts only do harm to their own lives: you poison the lungs of the innocent, your din dithers the peaceful, and on choked roads hundreds must daily die by chance-medley. Nimble technicians, surely you should hang your heads in shame. Your wit works mighty wonders, has landed men on the Moon, replaced brains by computers, and can smithy a "smart" bomb. It is a crying scandal that you cannot take the time or be bothered to build us, what sanity knows we need, an odorless and noiseless staid little electric brougham.

    W.H. Auden (1907-1973), A Curse:

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crasher View Post
    It isn't complicated; there are two main reasons for poor heater output. Firstly the matrix is so small they had to make the capillaries tiny and so they block easily and you cannot effectively flush it clean, it will just silt up again. What we do is blast the system clean with the pressure wash and I mean clean! Then we fit a new matrix (genuine) and we refill with G13 and that NORMALLY gets the heat flowing. The other problem is the electric heater water pump and the intercooler pump, these are both very prone to failure and failure of either causes cavitation in the system and.... gurgling noises... The water pump impeller issue is OLD, that was years ago.
    Thanks Crasher

    I'm sceptical whether ours is a matrix issue and the reason i say that is that the silicant bag in the old expansion tank was not ruptured and the water / tank is spotlessly clean - just clean G13 pink coolant. Also, since the recent gurgling episode, both pipes to the matrix are piping hot and heating fully operational

    It would appear that it's only when we have the gurgling noise that we experience a heater issue. Could it be an intermittent issue with the electric heater pump or intercooler pump (or one of these is inoperative) that only surfaces during long runs? Although there are no fault codes to report on the system
    2013 Golf GT 2.0 TDI-CR

  4. #24
    Administrator Keithuk's Avatar
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    You can Google granules in cooling systems VW.

    Found these swimming in coolant reservoir...

    VW coolant silica bag.

    Coolant silica bag, to remove or not?
    2010 Golf GTD (170) CBBB, 5 Door, Shadow Blue (P6/D5Q), Transmission Code: KXZ, Flat Tyre Indicator, Basic Protection Pack + VCDS.


  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithuk View Post
    You can Google granules in cooling systems VW.

    Found these swimming in coolant reservoir...

    VW coolant silica bag.

    Coolant silica bag, to remove or not?
    Thanks Keith

    I've replaced the expansion tank & cap just to eradicate them as a cause. Interestingly, i cut open the old expansion tank and the bag of granules was inside - fully intact. So i have ruled out this silica bag bursting causing the matrix to block
    2013 Golf GT 2.0 TDI-CR

  6. #26
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    Well we've covered about 400 miles since the car's last "motorway" episode

    No loss of water, no heating problems - car is running fine.

    Again, because of this - i still dispute VW's diagnosis of the heater matrix. Glad i didn't part with over £800.

    I'll keep the thread updated as and when (and if) we get further trouble. Worth noting that after the car's last issue - i did change both the expansion tank and cap as they were so low cost it was worth fitting new parts just in order to rule them out
    2013 Golf GT 2.0 TDI-CR

  7. Thanks Crasher thanked for this post
  8. #27
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    I am so glad I found this topic ! Hopefully we can solve the puzzle together !

    I imported a 2016 MK7 GTD 2.0 TDI CUNA form Germany into the Netherlands with 93.000km in march 2019. I had to refill coolant quite a few times now and noticed that this always occurs on long drives (5 hour) and sometimes on shorter drives (1 hour) and only on motorways doing 100 – 130 KM/H (60 – 75 MpH).

    I could not find any leakage, no coolant on the floor of the garage. We checked the car with VCDS and could not find any errors, we forced a DPF with VCDS and noticed there was coolant coming underneath the reservoir.

    At first I thought the reservoir would be broken so I bought a new one. The reason there is coolant coming underneath the reservoir is because there is a small overflow pipe going through the reservoir. When the pressure is over 2 BAR the coolant is released through the pipe.

    After the forced DPF and the loss of coolant I was convinced that the overpressure in the coolingsystem is related to the DPF. As I can not always drive around with a laptops and VCDS-cable I bought a bluetooth CANBUS connector and bought the app VAG DPF. This gives a dashboard with counters on the DPF process. This way I exactly know when the DPF starts and finishes. The Heater Matrix is just behind the Partikel Filter wich reaches about 700 Celcius, my idea is that the heater matrix is heated with extrem hot air form the Parkitel Filter just after DPF.





    My coolant temp on the dashboard stays 90 Celcius and my oiltemp is varying from 100 – 105. The DPF is done every 200 - 350 km. When i put the DSG in S-mode just after the DPF proces finishes and drive it more sportly i sometimes manage to not overflow the coolant, the coolant still rises almost to the cap but does not overflow.

    I imported the car from a VW dealership and I still have warranty. I am allowed to let my dutch VW dealership to investigate the problem. But,……what to test, check, fix or replace ???

  9. #28
    Administrator Crasher's Avatar
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    The warranty from NEW provided by VW is Europe wide but unless a extension was specified as a new vehicle option, that is only two years. If it is a dealer warranty I do not know if it crosses EU borders but I suspect not.

    ignore what the coolant temperature gauges says, if you use your OBD display to show the true temperature you will see that is not accurate and I have seen the live data show 117 and the gauge still show 90 which is daft.
    2003 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate. APR 98RON remap, APR R1 diverter valve, Jetex exhaust, K&N panel filter, 7.5x18 Alutec Monstr wheels with 225/40 18 Uniroyal Rainsport 3 tyres.
    2006 Polo GTI 1.8T, APR 95RON remap
    1988 Golf 2 GTI 16 valve, 2.2 with Weber Alpha injection
    1983 Golf 1 GTI 8 valve, 2 litre with Eurospec racing 42/36 head
    1972 1302LS auto 1641cc conversion

    Vile Invention

    Dark was that day when Diesel conceived his grim engine that begot you, vile invention, more vicious, more criminal than the camera even, metallic monstrosity, bale and bane of our culture, chief woe of our Commonweal. How dare the Law prohibit hashish and heroin yet license your use, who inflate all weak inferior egos? Their addicts only do harm to their own lives: you poison the lungs of the innocent, your din dithers the peaceful, and on choked roads hundreds must daily die by chance-medley. Nimble technicians, surely you should hang your heads in shame. Your wit works mighty wonders, has landed men on the Moon, replaced brains by computers, and can smithy a "smart" bomb. It is a crying scandal that you cannot take the time or be bothered to build us, what sanity knows we need, an odorless and noiseless staid little electric brougham.

    W.H. Auden (1907-1973), A Curse:

  10. #29
    Administrator Keithuk's Avatar
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    Golfie7GTD - First posts normally go in introductions else you could get a free fix and we never see you again!!!

    Its no use posting a small picture of what it shows.

    You need to get your motor scanned (preferably with VAG-COM\VCDS) for any error codes logged in the ecu and post them, that will save a lot of guessing and check systems out.
    2010 Golf GTD (170) CBBB, 5 Door, Shadow Blue (P6/D5Q), Transmission Code: KXZ, Flat Tyre Indicator, Basic Protection Pack + VCDS.


  11. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golfie7GTD View Post
    I am so glad I found this topic ! Hopefully we can solve the puzzle together !

    I imported a 2016 MK7 GTD 2.0 TDI CUNA form Germany into the Netherlands with 93.000km in march 2019. I had to refill coolant quite a few times now and noticed that this always occurs on long drives (5 hour) and sometimes on shorter drives (1 hour) and only on motorways doing 100 – 130 KM/H (60 – 75 MpH).

    I could not find any leakage, no coolant on the floor of the garage. We checked the car with VCDS and could not find any errors, we forced a DPF with VCDS and noticed there was coolant coming underneath the reservoir.

    At first I thought the reservoir would be broken so I bought a new one. The reason there is coolant coming underneath the reservoir is because there is a small overflow pipe going through the reservoir. When the pressure is over 2 BAR the coolant is released through the pipe.

    After the forced DPF and the loss of coolant I was convinced that the overpressure in the coolingsystem is related to the DPF. As I can not always drive around with a laptops and VCDS-cable I bought a bluetooth CANBUS connector and bought the app VAG DPF. This gives a dashboard with counters on the DPF process. This way I exactly know when the DPF starts and finishes. The Heater Matrix is just behind the Partikel Filter wich reaches about 700 Celcius, my idea is that the heater matrix is heated with extrem hot air form the Parkitel Filter just after DPF.





    My coolant temp on the dashboard stays 90 Celcius and my oiltemp is varying from 100 – 105. The DPF is done every 200 - 350 km. When i put the DSG in S-mode just after the DPF proces finishes and drive it more sportly i sometimes manage to not overflow the coolant, the coolant still rises almost to the cap but does not overflow.

    I imported the car from a VW dealership and I still have warranty. I am allowed to let my dutch VW dealership to investigate the problem. But,……what to test, check, fix or replace ???
    I have an update on our Golf as well. The problem reoccurred some time ago - again!!!

    Symptoms:

    No hot air from vents
    On long runs it expels some water from the reservoir
    Temp always reads correctly

    Anyway, i once again disconnected the heater matrix pipes (which are a bit of a pig to get too) and inserted a pressure hose into the left hand pipe (it won't flush from the right hand outlet as there must be a one way valve somewhere). Anyway i ran the right hand hose initially into a receptical to catch the residue water / dirt in the heater matrix. The coolant that came out of the matrix - was crystal clear with no particles or dirt in it. I then left the hose running for about 20 mins

    Re-fitted the hoses, topped up the coolant reservoir and ran the car up squeezing all the hoses whilst i went. Lovely hot air from the vents and the problem has once again gone away

    I'm still unconvinced that the matrix is blocking with dirt and maybe getting airlocked? as this poster suggests after the DPF cycle "my idea is that the heater matrix is heated with extreme hot air form the Parkitel Filter just after DPF"
    2013 Golf GT 2.0 TDI-CR

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