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Thread: Front suspension gone (overnight?)

  1. #1
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    Front suspension gone (overnight?)

    So last night my car was absolutely fine, and I don't recall hitting any bumps hard.
    This morning I start it up and start to roll it forward and horrible noise - upon inspection the offside front side is down as far as it will go - if i push down on the bonnet it doesn't compress at all.

    Am I right in thinking this means the front coil spring has broken? Or could it be something else?

    How difficult is it to fix this oneself? I watched a video on it, and there seemed to be a couple of specialist tools involved, one of which was an enormous gadget to compress the spring which kind of rules out DIY unless there's a way around it.

    I've done the rear brakes and discs and that wasn't too hard, but I'm thinking this is a whole new level of awkward.

  2. #2
    Administrator Crasher's Avatar
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    What is the car?
    2003 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate. APR 98RON remap, APR R1 diverter valve, Jetex exhaust, K&N panel filter, 7.5x18 Alutec Monstr wheels with 225/40 18 Uniroyal Rainsport 3 tyres.
    2006 Polo GTI 1.8T, APR 95RON remap
    1988 Golf 2 GTI 16 valve, 2.2 with Weber Alpha injection
    1983 Golf 1 GTI 8 valve, 2 litre with Eurospec racing 42/36 head
    1972 1302LS auto 1641cc conversion

    Vile Invention

    Dark was that day when Diesel conceived his grim engine that begot you, vile invention, more vicious, more criminal than the camera even, metallic monstrosity, bale and bane of our culture, chief woe of our Commonweal. How dare the Law prohibit hashish and heroin yet license your use, who inflate all weak inferior egos? Their addicts only do harm to their own lives: you poison the lungs of the innocent, your din dithers the peaceful, and on choked roads hundreds must daily die by chance-medley. Nimble technicians, surely you should hang your heads in shame. Your wit works mighty wonders, has landed men on the Moon, replaced brains by computers, and can smithy a "smart" bomb. It is a crying scandal that you cannot take the time or be bothered to build us, what sanity knows we need, an odorless and noiseless staid little electric brougham.

    W.H. Auden (1907-1973), A Curse:

  3. #3
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    Sorry it's a 2010 VW Golf Diesel Estate.

    I took the wheel off -definitely coil - completely shorn off.

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    OK - so decided to go the garage route - been quoted 265 to replace both coils with extra 140 for the shocks. Now the question is, should I have them replaced or not? Is there normally a need if the coils go?
    Any thoughts anyone?

  5. #5
    Administrator Crasher's Avatar
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    Firstly, be very wary about the springs used as most aftermarket ones are bundled into groups and very rarely exactly right. The only way we will do it is using Suplex or genuine springs. On Friday we did the rear springs/dampers all round on a Golf 6 GTI and we used Suplex on the back. We had only planned to do the rears but we found the fronts were heavily corroded and as we were short of time we had to buy genuine, also as we were fitting Koni Active dampers I wanted to know the critical front springs were as close to genuine as possible. I could have got Sachs (which I am OK with on the rear of non fussy cars) or any one of half a dozen hit or miss brands but I wanted perfection.
    2003 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate. APR 98RON remap, APR R1 diverter valve, Jetex exhaust, K&N panel filter, 7.5x18 Alutec Monstr wheels with 225/40 18 Uniroyal Rainsport 3 tyres.
    2006 Polo GTI 1.8T, APR 95RON remap
    1988 Golf 2 GTI 16 valve, 2.2 with Weber Alpha injection
    1983 Golf 1 GTI 8 valve, 2 litre with Eurospec racing 42/36 head
    1972 1302LS auto 1641cc conversion

    Vile Invention

    Dark was that day when Diesel conceived his grim engine that begot you, vile invention, more vicious, more criminal than the camera even, metallic monstrosity, bale and bane of our culture, chief woe of our Commonweal. How dare the Law prohibit hashish and heroin yet license your use, who inflate all weak inferior egos? Their addicts only do harm to their own lives: you poison the lungs of the innocent, your din dithers the peaceful, and on choked roads hundreds must daily die by chance-medley. Nimble technicians, surely you should hang your heads in shame. Your wit works mighty wonders, has landed men on the Moon, replaced brains by computers, and can smithy a "smart" bomb. It is a crying scandal that you cannot take the time or be bothered to build us, what sanity knows we need, an odorless and noiseless staid little electric brougham.

    W.H. Auden (1907-1973), A Curse:

  6. #6
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    Hmm - I've found Suplex springs elsewhere - far cheaper than ECP's Sachs - are OEM parts available anywhere online though or only through a VW dealer? If I google OEM parts I find sites claiming to sell them, but when I put in my details I just get a long list of 3rd party parts.

    Having looked a lot more into it, I'm now thinking of doing it myself - I changed the rear brake discs earlier this year and if anything this job doesn't look any trickier - just a few more bolts - correct me if I'm wrong but the only bit of specialist equipment I think I'll need is the coil compressor which I can buy quite cheaply.

    So heeding your advice on parts, and also noticing that you seem to treat the front suspension as far more critical (presumably because of the steering element) with respect to parts - can you advise where I could source genuine parts and also if there are any major pitfalls/other specialist tools?

    I've found a very clear video on autodoc - also reading Haynes - The main difference is that Autodoc removed the calipers, while Haynes seems to have left them in place - I guess for 2 bolts it's probably worth removing as it takes the brake hose out of the way.
    The main possible sticking points I've found are
    1) separation of the lower arm from the wheel bearing assembly - autodoc uses a special tool to prise it open - haynes makes no mention.
    2) Separation of the wheel bearing assembly from the driveshaft - video makes it look easy, but Haynes suggests that it could it be tight and need a "puller bolted to the hub" to remove.
    3) Refitting - May need to get clever with a trolley jack to lift everything back into position on the strut - how much of the strut should extend through the clamp at this point and is it critical?

    Finally while I'm doing all this is there anything else I should be checking for renewal? I'm probably going to do the brakes at the same time because I'll be 80% of the way there and my old discs are very corroded (never been changed) - just need to get the caliper holder and the old discs off.

    Sorry if I'm throwing a lot of questions out - I'm not bothered taking projects on, but I know from experience it's better to know the pitfalls in advance so you can get the right tools in place.

  7. #7
    Administrator Crasher's Avatar
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    I use various trade systems to find out the genuine part number and then a list of the major suppliers who offer copies or even the original part that they supplied to VW, a so called OEM.

    I a pair of front dampers on a Golf 7 on Thursday and with the vehicle on a 2 post lift, air tools, a strut clamp spreader (yes this is important) and a bench mounted spring compressor it took me three hours. The Golf 6 is almost identical, the worst part is getting the right hand shut out, without a lift you have to disconnect the three bottom ball joint nuts (the studs like to snap) and the care hub nut so you can draw the hub out and down to disinfect the strut.

    Remember this means new passengers and wheel alignment.

    Private Message me your REG number and I will give you the genuine part number for the springs.

    When buying from Autodoc, bear in mind they work purely by VIN which is not always accurate so when parts have come from Germany and are wrong it is awkward which is why I only by from them after I have cross checked backwards and sideways.
    2003 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate. APR 98RON remap, APR R1 diverter valve, Jetex exhaust, K&N panel filter, 7.5x18 Alutec Monstr wheels with 225/40 18 Uniroyal Rainsport 3 tyres.
    2006 Polo GTI 1.8T, APR 95RON remap
    1988 Golf 2 GTI 16 valve, 2.2 with Weber Alpha injection
    1983 Golf 1 GTI 8 valve, 2 litre with Eurospec racing 42/36 head
    1972 1302LS auto 1641cc conversion

    Vile Invention

    Dark was that day when Diesel conceived his grim engine that begot you, vile invention, more vicious, more criminal than the camera even, metallic monstrosity, bale and bane of our culture, chief woe of our Commonweal. How dare the Law prohibit hashish and heroin yet license your use, who inflate all weak inferior egos? Their addicts only do harm to their own lives: you poison the lungs of the innocent, your din dithers the peaceful, and on choked roads hundreds must daily die by chance-medley. Nimble technicians, surely you should hang your heads in shame. Your wit works mighty wonders, has landed men on the Moon, replaced brains by computers, and can smithy a "smart" bomb. It is a crying scandal that you cannot take the time or be bothered to build us, what sanity knows we need, an odorless and noiseless staid little electric brougham.

    W.H. Auden (1907-1973), A Curse:

  8. #8
    Administrator Keithuk's Avatar
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    First posts normally go in introductions else you could get a free fix and we never see you again!!!

    You car spec save 0 when asked. I've added that to your profile.
    2010 Golf GTD (170) CBBB, 5 Door, Shadow Blue (P6/D5Q), Transmission Code: KXZ, Flat Tyre Indicator, Basic Protection Pack + VCDS.


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    "First posts normally go in introductions else you could get a free fix and we never see you again!!!"

    Unlikely - while once upon a time I left my car to the garage - in the last 2 years I've learned to change the turbo and rear brakes (discs + pads), change the bonnet catch as well as perform a full service and it's getting older all the time, so I think I'll be on here a fair amount!
    On the plus side it's getting easier every time I crack out the toolkit.


    2010 Golf Estate BlueMotion 1.6 TDI-CR

  10. #10
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    @Crasher
    Note the tool I enquired about shown in the video was to take the tie-rod end out. For the strut clamp they just used a chisel - the tool you mention though is pretty cheap and looks a heck of a lot simpler than messing around so I'll add it to the kit required thanks.
    It took me 8h to do my rear brakes - 3h was getting one of the bolts holding the caliper carrier out - tried everything - in the end I managed to wedge a small jack in between a metal bar I'd wedged in and the socket spanner and using that, got the bolt started. Another 90 minutes was removing one of the old discs which was welded on - had to get a blowtorch to it. So a long testing job doesn't bother me.

    One thing I'm a little puzzled by - Haynes and AutoDoc(Youtube) both leave those 3 bolts on the suspension arm in place and disconnect the ball joint bolt instead and then lever the suspension arm down. While a couple of other videos do as you say and undo those 3 bolts.
    2010 Golf Estate BlueMotion 1.6 TDI-CR

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