2009 Passat B6 Oil Pressure & brakes servo problems

Hodgie

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Jan 26, 2021
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For some reason my replies are not showing!! I just said that the car has done over 220,000 miles and the high cost items are
More than the car even when working fully would be worth!
I just need to try to get a few months more usewhikst looking for suitable economic replacement used wheels
 

Hodgie

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So your saying that I spend £ hundreds or thousands on the kits you recommend rather than a regular replacement oil pump and drive hex plus possibly the gear drive and chain or it’s scrap??!
 

Crasher

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Yep, just like 10 year old hybrid and full electric vehicles will be... only thing is some poor sod will have to deal with the batteries 🔥
 

Gazwould

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You could put it all back together after kit 10 , bolts , new cassette etc and have turbo and engine damage , which is why you have to assess first .

My father had this problem 10 years ago on 83K miles , a few miles into a journey he called me to bring some oil as a oil pressure light came up .

He drove 1 mile closer and pulled over as I arrived with the oil , except the level was fine .

He limped it home and we decided to order an oil pressure switch , switch fitted idled for 5 mins and drove up the road as soon as it hit 2000 rpm , low oil pressure again .

Later found out another flaw is it only detects low oil pressure over 2000 rpm !

Then we found the Audi Driver article

audibalshaftmag.jpg


And here we are 10 years later still writing about the engineering abomination that can be only described as planned obsolescence ( they designed it to fail )

With the only recall being in South Korea !

 
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Hodgie

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Yep, that's exactly what I have, and have taken off the pump and the hex drive and there is the damage! The pump seems fine but I'm not sure about the splined chain tensioner? If that needs replacement as well as the hex drive, how big a job is that and do the twin shafts need locking somehow as I believe there would be a timing issue otherwise? How do I tell whether the engine is otherwise damaged and presumably I should take off the turbo to check that? Where can one get new spares for that splined chain tensioner and the correct hex drive I can see plenty on eBay but all from abroad it seems.
 

Gazwould

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Chain tensioner is for the very early engines found in 2004 Audi A4 B7 BLB etc .

Double trouble as the chain tensioner fails the chewed teeth end up in the engine oil and then finally loses drive .

Later and yours are gear driven .

You did well getting to 220K .
 

Crasher

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Something that is nagging me is the brake servo issue, during a short interruption of oil pressure I can’t see this affecting the tandem pump so I am puzzled.
 

Hodgie

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Chain tensioner is for the very early engines found in 2004 Audi A4 B7 BLB etc .

Double trouble as the chain tensioner fails the chewed teeth end up in the engine oil and then finally loses drive .

Later and yours are gear driven .

You did well getting to 220K .
In fact its only 212,000 miles. I bought a exchange pump drive shaft and replaced that in the module, reassembled taking car on the timing, put in new oil, and the car ran but in limp mode. I then had an exchange turbo fitted, the old one was loose on the impeller shaft, and the car now runs BUT... it is using much more fuel and at 1600-1800 revs it causes extreme vibration as though the car is running over a cattle grid. Also it struggles to get into or to stay in 6th gear even on a very shallow inclined road and changes down to 4th or 5th gear. No warning signs are coming up apart from the steering alignment yellow light. It's almost as though the car is only running on 3 cylinders? Can anyone suggest what the problem may be and what may be involved to fix it?
 

Hodgie

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I didn't lock it with anything like the part you show, but I turned it to TDC before removing the module and ensured that the two shafts inside had the flat in line with each other and then carefully replaced the module without moving anything. Do you think that it could have shifted a tooth or so and that could be the problem? Is there any way to double check without having to disassemble everything again?
 

Crasher

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You have to lock the balance shafts whilst you tighten the bolts in the slotted gear with the crank locked

crank%20locked%20balancer%20on_zpshmeiadbm.jpg
 

Hodgie

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Hi Crasher, I cranked the engine around with a hex socket and arm to get the timing notch at 6 0'clock and removed the manifold, then installed the new shaft and set the two shafts with their flats to the top facing up to the engine block and with flats inline and level across them both and carefully reinstalled the manifold with those in that position and the notch still at 6 o'clock. That is what the supplier of the shaft told me to do and he was being very helpful. Have I got this so wrong that the timing is upset then??
 
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