Excessive inner rear tyre wear

Chester Drawers

New member
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
2
Are you still offering this service?

We are doing a full subframe rebuild, powercoat new links and selected Powerflex bushes in a week or so.

This is most interesting!

I have a B7 Passat with knackered rear bushes and unven tyre wear that needs looking at.

Is this something you may be interested in looking at? Please PM if so. Thanks!
 

Crasher

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Apr 22, 2006
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24,893
Location
Nottingham, England
Yes it is a common job for us, in fact the 2010 Passat we have bought as a courtesy car needs a full on rebuild and floor treatment. Some of these can get out of hand cost wise and it becalmed a passion thing, some people get it and others don’t, it depends on how you feel about cars and maintaining them.... basically spend as little as possible on mainlanders and pump the money into new metal every year or two or get “into” the car and enjoy repair ing and modding, I must be odd I suppose but there are a lot of chaps (and a few chapesses) who are odd in this way. And I do like restoring things rather than chucking them away and buying new, even if it is fiscally bonkers.

This one got very expensive, came out at around £2.5k which most normal people would find bonkers on a decade old car but the chap loves the old girl.

This job is hard dirty time consuming graft but fun at the same time and gives a great feeling of satisfaction when lying on your back staring up at up

Failed upper arm inner bush



Snapped lower damper bolt



Rear end end on deck



Using induction heater to get seized bolts bolts out of ally hubs



Induction heating the subframe bush to “boil” it free



Classic chassis leg surface rust



Rusted through sill closing panel



Needle descaler gun removal of lose rust, what we call a rattle gun.



Treated rust



Primer coating the treated rust



Coating the entire area with Dinitrol 3125HS



Power-coated subframe



Big pile of bits from Febi, Merle, Sachs and genuine VAG



Powder-coated old parts reused



Rebuilding











 

Chester Drawers

New member
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
2
Yes it is a common job for us[/url]

Could you PM me some contact details then perhaps I could bring it round for you to have look at and give a ball park quote?

I fully appreciate that when you start taking things apart what started off as a seemingly simple job can easily escalate.

With this in mind my 19 and 20 year old B5 facelift A4s look far better underneath than this B7 does.
 

baba_metca

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Joined
Nov 9, 2020
Messages
2
Location
Bulgaria
Hello, I have a Seat Alhambra 4wd new from 2016, on 17" wheels. I have the same problem. The most inner sides are worn. I managed to find only two themes about this issue for the Alhambra/Sharan community.
The other one is https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/112716/seat-alhambra---rear . Fills like the same thing.

Now my car has done 43K miles total mainly highway, moderate driving. And last Saturday I changed the summer tyres to winters. So the summer tyres were all (All 4 tyres) worn on the most inside part. Something that I have not noticed previous times. Where I live we have good winter so every year we change to winter tyres and vice versa. As the tyres on the car have direction and I change them on the X and || pattern they are all worn on the inside. May be, because of the tyre rotating, they were always wearing a bit more on the rear inside and this year it became noticeable on all 4 tyres. There is no way that they can be worn on both sides, because of the directional installation. And there is no way that this is happening on one wheel only, as the damage is really visible and I would have seen it this spring.

The summer tyres made 28K miles. (Yes I do track the miles on every tyre rotation/change just like oil and everything else). And all pretty much have ~5mm tread left on all 4 main channels (OEM Conti Premium contact 2, ContiSeal that the car shipped with). Winters have 6+mm tread left on all the main channels but have not tested the sides also I do not believe that the outer and inner sides have the same depth from new, but will check them today.

Something that I have noticed is that the rear wheels/tyres look tilted to the outside slightly even when there is no load on the car. The front are pretty much straight for my naked eye. It might have been like that from new. I have not noticed it to this day, but have not looked. And it is obvious that the inner side of the rear tyres is more loaded than the outer side. Even by the pressure bulb that the tyre makes, it so more on the inside.

I'm having the same difficulty - understanding what are the bushes that might help this issue in future. Also what to check for damage already done. As well I have an alignment appointment this evening.
You couldn't point to an image or schematic diagram by any chance so I can work out which bushes they are.


I have the official Seat specs and methods to change alignment downloaded from eRWin and I presume they are the same for Sharan models too.
Mr. Crasher specs for Camber are the same as in the manual
-1° 20ʹ +/- 30ʹ
, but the height is different. For my normal suspension the manual states 428 +/- 10mm. He stated 383 -may be that is for the Passat? Also to fix it the camber should be changed to -1, is that the maximum for no other damages or it can be lowered with the 10' that are left from the maximum 30' possible?

Thanks for the thread as here the dealer is saying "I have no such complaints to this moment". Something that I do not believe. Or the moderate highway driving style is just not consuming the whole tyres and thus making them last "forever", showing only the problematic suspension setup.
 

baba_metca

New member
Joined
Nov 9, 2020
Messages
2
Location
Bulgaria
Here is my data: Before adjustment - Rear Left - Camber -2° 16ʹ, toe +0° 02ʹ. Rear Right - Camber -1° 41ʹ, toe -0° 10ʹ. After adjustment - Rear Left - Camber -1° 19ʹ, toe +0° 03ʹ. Rear Right - Camber -1° 23ʹ, toe +0° 04ʹ. I'm going to do some test drives and comeback for additional tuning. Strangely the alignment rig (Hunter) showed that Rear Toe should be between +0° 00ʹ and +0° 10ʹ, but the manualt stated +0° 00ʹ. and +0° 20ʹ. The camber tolerance is as in the manual and Crasher statement.
 
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