Looking for rear wheel alightment specs

sunguy

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Oct 21, 2013
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Four Marks Hampshire UK
Hope someone can help me...

I have replaced my 2010 VW Golf Mk6 rear suspension, in particular, items 9 and 18 (both sides) in the attached diagram, all has gone well (I had to cut item 4 off to remove the lower wishbone) After driving around the block it's clear (not surprisingly) the wheel alignment is now out. If possible I would like to try DIY rear wheel alighnment but I need the alighnment specs for a 2010 VW Golf Mk6.

Can anyone help me with specs or tips for wheel alignment?
 

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Crasher

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Old! Mine is 2003 and I have put £5k into it in the last year. If just the rear needs setting up and you have freed off the camber bolts ( I assume you have done the tracking eccentrics already) then around £60.
 

sunguy

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Four Marks Hampshire UK
Thanks Crasher, £60 sounds fine. I have also replaced the upper trans link on both sides along with the eccentric camber bolts so camber will also need doing. The upper eccentric bolts are a real pig to access as they are tucked up between the fuel tank and the sub-frame.

2003, I’m impressed, on mine one of the lower wishbones was really corroded and would probably fail the next MOT, Indeed rust looks to be a real issue underneath.
 

sunguy

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Four Marks Hampshire UK
Had the rear suspension professionaly re-alighned using a Hunter suspension tracking rig, as you can see from the attached picture both rear toe and camber were well out of spec. Once completed Hunter give you a before and after printout, £90.00 inc VAT. By all accounts they had to do two passes to get the rear as near spec as possible. Hope somone finds the attached useful.
 

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Touranasaurus

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May 18, 2013
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I have my Touran's alignment checked at my local Kwikfit (not everyones favourite I know) they use laser alignment, produces identical printouts to that shown by Sunguy above. Cost £75 and it was money well spent. The print out shows before and after, and in the waiting room is a display screen so you can watch how they get everything set up. Difference on the road was noticable.
 

Crasher

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That rear camber is too negative in my experience, I insist the company we use set it to the top (positive) end of the tolerance, not the lower, and then alter the tracking to suit.
 

sunguy

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Oct 21, 2013
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Four Marks Hampshire UK
Thanks crasher and touranasaurus for the tips. Crasher is probably right in that the alignment could be improved, however the car drives much better that it did before and the steering wheel is level so I’m happy.

A point worth mentioning is the rear lower wishbone inner concentric bolts were really rusty but I managed to free them off, however the inner rubber bushes were seized to the bolts, it’s I’m sure possible to tear / damage the rubber bushes as you try to adjust the tracking. The concentric bolts are steel but the bushes are rubber bonded to an aluminium core. This causes galvanic corrosion fusing the bolt and bush, I had to cut both of them off! - a real pain.
 

Crasher

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That inner lower spring plate bush is the bane of our lives! We replace them with Powerflex as these resist defection and the sleeve is stainless steel. The eccentric bolt is Torque To Yield and must only have the stretch applied once or it can snap. Often we have to cut the bolt head off inside the frame with an air hacksaw and thin blade taking care not to damage the subframe.

https://flic.kr/p/2g4kmCf
These are new Febi arms and standard bushes.

https://flic.kr/p/2heUvZn
 
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