Touran 2.0 TDi 2004 Timing Belt change

suityou01

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I'm in the middle of the timing belt change and am trying to set TDC on piston 1. I bought a chinese timing locking tool and have run into some problems. (This deserves flaming, so flame away).
The problems I am facing are this :

The kit comes with 2 tools that look similar, one with the timing mark at just before 12 O'Clock, and one at 2 O'Clock. The latter fits the teeth on the crankshaft, while the former does not fit exactly. The timing mark on the latter does not line up, as the timing mark points to a low point on the sprocket, whereas the timing mark on the sprocket is on a tooth.

The second problem is that if I try and lock the crankshaft using the 2 O'clock version and put the timing mark on the tooth before or after the mark on the tool, I can insert the 6mm dowel in the hole in the cylinder head behind the camshaft sprocket, but it is more or less in the middle of the semicircular slot cut out of the camshaft, and I would think this would allow the camshaft sprocket to move in either direction by a few degrees, so just doesn't feel right to me.

The Haynes manual says to use a "homemade tool" to hold the camshaft sprocket in place while you slacken off the 3 bolts around the centre bolt. Is there something a little less crap than a homemade tool that they don't offer any pictures for, or even a napkin drawing of one?

Any help appreciated.
 

suityou01

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Thanks mate. I understand it's to spec to change the studs for the tensioner and idler pulley, and rh engine mounting bolts. I have them on order. Is this something the panel would advise? I've never had a garage mention it before, and this is the first time I am changing the timing belt (to save money).
 

Crasher

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Almost every single nut and bolt on a modern VAG product is one time only, in the case of bolts it is known as Torque To Yeild or TTY; I have no idea about other makes as they are not allowed in the car park… especially B*W! There are one or two exceptions such as the engine consul to the block on some versions but you need to know the specific torque spec and what VAG say but as a general rule if the spec is torque plus angle, it is TTY. To be safe we fit all new (it also looks nice) but that is easy for us as we keep a huge stock of genuine fasteners (quite literally thousands of £’s of them and we have the parts and workshop systems to hand as well as fast acces to TPS stock. Some bolts are daft money, we did a full 4B AllRoad back axle rebuild and there were over £300 of bolts, some £20 each.
 

suityou01

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Any tips for how to remove the rh engine mounting bracket from the cylinder head? Not enough clearance between engine and inner wing to remove it. Its driving me to tears trying to work round it.
 

Crasher

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I use a short 16mm six point head socket on a low profile 3/8” drive ratchet BUT speed things up a lot using an air ratchet, a luxury you won’t have so once cracked off, a loose thread bolt means a lot of small movements holding the socket against the ratchets internal return friction.
 

Crasher

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Ohh this is where you start casting doubts on the birthright of the engineers that designed this, you HAVE to work with the mount in place and it WILL drive you to tears. You need to remove the water pump to get the bracket out either with the engine jacked high or low, much easier if you remove the lower gearbox torque mount (meaning new bolts, 21mm and 16mm sockets) BUT you MUST have the bracket back in place before you fit the new water pump, interestingly the water pump bolts can be reused, 15Nm from memory.
 

suityou01

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Is it actually possible to fit a new belt? I ask this having tried many times and failed.

When I was at school a timing belt only got tension AFTER you fitted it and THEN applied the tensioner. This is just too tight to work with.
 
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Crasher

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I don’ fit the little idler pulley until the belt is on and often take off the outer top pulley to guide the belt on but that takes practice to get right
 
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