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T5 (t32) newbie advice sought

27K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  PendlePerformance  
#1 ·
Hi All,
I'm a recent new owner of a 2.5 T32 which has up to now been fantastic really chuffed with everthing about it !
But it has recently developed a very confusing problem,
Basically i am getting fumes inside the vehicle, these seem to be of a metalic, acidic nature rather than pure exhaust fumes although can't completely
rule exhaust fumes out,
It has been to my local garage on two occasions but still getting the fumes, the garage found a small leak on one of the EGR pipes, and they also cleaned the air con,
said they have checked all exhaust joints, flanges,manifolds etc, but im still getting these fumes,

Along with the smell you get a metalic taste in your mouth, all a bit bizzare i know but its driving me mad trying to rectify as i cant really use the van whilst it's
still in this condition.

I'm not without mechanical knowledge, and i'm hunching towards some sort of Catalytic converter problem but im at a loss as to how the fumes are getting inside the cab,
If anybody has any ideas or has had simmilar issues i'd be very gratefull for any and all advice.
Thanks in advance
Mick.
 
#2 ·
Is it fitted with the additional heater?
 
#4 ·
I don't do much on T5's, I am not keen on commercial vehicles, the owners usually expect the vehicle done the day before they bring it in and for you to pay for the work so I cannot be bothered.
 
#5 ·
I have a similar problem on the VW Crafter I am using at work. It is now causing me breathing difficulties, but the dealership cannot find a problem with it, after three attempts. The fumes don't smell all the time, but after an hour in the van you always get the bad chemical taste in the mouth. I'm worried it's doing me lasting damage.

Please help if you know what could be causing this.

Barnstrad
 
#6 ·
hi mick, just a quick reply to your vw transporter problem!!! i have the same van as u and had the same problem! it got to the point when i just couldn't drive it anymore. i had really bad headaces from the exhaust fumes etc etc!!! it turned out to be the exaust manifold nuts/bolts had cracked on top where the exhaust meets the engine, it took two days to find out wot the problem was and had to drop the engine down just to get to the problem, ÂŁ600.00 later the job was done!!! however i done still get the odd smell of it now and then!!!! hope this has helped you kind regards darren..if you want to talk to me about it u can call if u wish on 07930328837...
do you know anyone who has a vw t5 lwb tailgate and rear bumper with parking seners for sale???
 
#7 ·
Mick,

It will be the DPF system fitted on the vehicle that is causing the smell, the DPF is a filter in the exhaust downpipe (directly after the turbo) its job is to catch the soot and once the soot level gets to a certain % the engine will then do a regen cycle to burn the soot out of the dpf.

Over time the dpf systems start to get blocked and you end up with failed regen as the system is to blocked to be able to be cleaned out.

So once you have a blocked or partly blocked DPF system it ends up putting back pressure on the engine as the engine gasses cannot escape cleanly down the exhaust, you will also get heat and pressure build up on the turbo and manifold.

You have a few options.

1, Visit a VAG Specialist or a main dealer and ask them to do a "Forced Regen"
2, Fit a New DPF System (BIG COSTS)
3, Get a tuning company to remove the DPF system and switch its function off within side the engine control unit. (never again have problems with it)

Do some research on the VW T5 DPF systems via google search which will get you more idea about them.

Hope this helps

Regards
Martin
PendlePerformance
 
#8 ·
Hello people I am a vw commercial tech the problem with the t5 smoke in cab I can say 99% that it will be number 1 cylinder exhaust manifold has cracked causing soot to enter engine bay near back of airbox and fumes get sucked in the fresh air intake any other questions please ask commercial vehicles are the way forward regards
 
#9 ·
Reason for exhaust systems cracking is generally down to the DPF being blocked which then puts huge back pressure on the system, this also generates very high EGTs Exhaust Gas Temps, Also you might not have a cracked manifold at all, it could well just be blowing past the joint which we find is 90% the problem on 100's of these we have done over the years.

If the manifold is cracked you can weld it up, which we usually do with them.

Regards
Martin
PendlePerformance
 
#10 ·
Welding don't last for long and for the price of the manifold/gasket and the time consuming job to take and re fit turbo/manifold ect be better to replace and if the engine like the axd and axe 2.5 engine codes that don't have dpf it don't really help with saying its cuz dpf is blocked cuz they haven't got one regards
 
#11 ·
Knowing what you are doing is key, we have welded many of these and have had no problems what so ever, I'll also say again (and please understand we have done literally 100's of these over the years) the most common reason for exhaust gasses in the cab is due to the DPF systems being blocked, this then causes huge back pressure on the turbo / exhaust manifold (and EGTs well into the 800-900°C) this then causes either the gasses to leak out between the turbo and manifold seal or cracking the manifold.

Removing the DPF systems totally removes the back pressure on the system and will result in you having no problems again.

The AXD & AXE engines do not have a "DPF" system, instead they have the "CAT" and yes these engines are still prone to cracking manifolds and also snapping exhaust studs as we have seen with quite a few vehicles, even to the point where we have had to remove the cylinder head to drill out snapped in studs.

Removing the Manifold on these really is a simple task and takes no longer than a few hours, a very quite DIY

1, Remove AirFilter Housing
2, Remove Boost Pipes
3, Remove Manifold Bolts
4, Remove Bolts Holding Manifold to Turbo
5, Remove Exhaust Downpipe
6, Remove Rear Engine Mounting (You do not need to support the engine)
7, Remove the Turbo oil manifold bolts

Job done... A good tech should have no problems removing these in 30-40mins, DIY I would give yourself 2hours.

Welding exhaust also is no problem what so ever and will last and save you shelling out on buying a new over priced manifold.

I'm more than happy to do a Photo by Photo DIY of the process and also show a correctly welded up manifold (that will last if welded by a professional)

Regards
Martin
PendlePerformance
 
#13 ·
Not at all aimed at shooting down but more aimed at giving people advise with these vehicles, we are lucky and work on these T5's day in day out and have come up againts this problem time after time.

Yes from a main dealers point of view (and I have over 20+years in this) showing my old age now, fitting a new manifold is the only option and also you do not have the option or equipment to be able to removed the DPF system and then switch the complete DPF function of within the engine managment system.

We find DPF systems are lasting around the 70k mark (adverage driving) but we have also seen them with as little as 30-40k and being totally and completely blocked which causes Limp Home mode due to a "Negative Boost Devation" i.e cannot reach the requested boost pressure.

Another good modifacation is fitting a larger front mounted intercooler which keeps the IAT (intake air temps) down which reduces combustion chamber temps and also EGTs (exhaust gas temps) Forge Motorsports Intercoolers are awesome.

I'm more than happy to help out where I can and also ask advise on other areas.

Regards
Martin
PendlePerformance